Tokyo Cafes: Fukagawa Coffee


The retro decore of Fukagawa Coffee is an effortless result of well-kept age.

Just a stone’s throw away from the and ramen shops of Monzenakacho and hip modern cafes up at Kiyosumi, one stumbles along a shop veranda with plants, classic countryside-garden benches, and a wind chime. Jazz music floats out from the open door, and when you poke your head in, it’s like walking into a time capsule from the jazz era a century ago.

Though it’s been around for decades, with its bewildering array of coffee options, Fukagawa Coffee has been sustained by coffee hunters and locals who don’t need Google Maps (it’s not marked, but the address is correct).

The adapted Creme Brulee is a lighter version of the Western original.

You can pick you seat and either the owner or his wife will come to take the order. The menu is all in Japanese. There are afternoon tea sets for 750 JPY with coffee or tea and a choice of matcha roll, matcha mont-blanc, creme brulee, brownie, cheesecake, and Satsuma sweet potato-apple tart.

This place is best enjoyed with at least an hour or two. Most of the visitors stayed a while with a book or a group of friends. It was the same for us. We sat for three hours long after dark.

Both dessert and espresso are served in Chinaware.

We had two sets, and tried both the drip coffee and the espresso. Both are yummy and mild, matching Japanese tastes and complimentary to the desserts. The creme brulee is a Japanese adaptation with more custard and less of the caramelised sugar, which results in a light, but satisfying dessert. The highlight of the Satsuma sweet potato and apple tart is definitely the flavourful paste filling, as the pastry puff is quite soft, more like a flaky bread.

Japanese fusion pastry: Satsuma Sweet Potato Apple Tart has Japanese paste filling.

In addition to the coffee and food, the decore is rich with history. Lamps hang from the ceiling. Porcelain tea pots grace the hardwood shelves. Japanese swords are on display in every free surface. The owner is happy to discuss them at length if you ask (in Japanese).

The countless swords, Chinaware, and photographs on display.

The best way to enjoy this place is to come with friends and share the ambience over great conversation and good company. On your way out, see if a certain roast catches your eye!

An array of coffee beans to choose from on your way out.

Good For:

  • Coffee: Drip, Espresso (straight)
  • Friends: Hangouts & catching up
  • Work* They don’t have WiFi or outlets, but plenty of tables.
  • Chilling and reading
Address: Fuyuki 6-chome 18, Koto-ku, Tokyo
Hours 8:00-19:00
営業日【年中無休 8:00~19:00

If you liked this post, check out the full list of Kiyosumishirakawa’s Cafes.



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  2. thetoykobean

    Nice! Gonna have to check this place out when I get a chance.


    1. Yes, you should! It’s one of the loveliest spaces I’ve visited, and not contrived at all. It just … is because it’s been around so long!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. thetoykobean

        Yeah, this is the kinda coffee shop that get’s lost to all the new innovation. Thanks for documenting it 🙂


      2. No problem, that’s what I cycle around doing – finding the places that just do great honest stuff and rely on word of mouth to keep them going.


      3. What are your favourite places? I’ll visit one of yours!

        Liked by 1 person

      4. thetoykobean

        If you like cycling, Zeb in Hashimoto is great, as well as Fuglen in Shinjuku! :3 Zeb is pretty far for you, I assume. But if you train and bus it out there, it’s worth it. I’ll be posting about it soon.

        Liked by 1 person

      5. Tried Flugen before. I’ll make a day trip out of Zeb! Sounds like it’ll make for a great adventure.

        Liked by 1 person

      6. thetoykobean

        Dope! Can’t wait to hear what you think.

        Liked by 1 person

      7. Perhaps we should do a coffee trip together? Are there any places you’ve not been that you’d like to try?

        Liked by 1 person

      8. thetoykobean

        Oh sweet! That’d be cool! I’m always up for more coffee buddys! :3 I just moved here in September, so there’s a lot I haven’t seen.

        Liked by 1 person

      9. Perhaps let’s do something mid-March? Are you only available on weekends?


      10. Toykobean

        I am most open on weekends! Feel free to add me on Facebook, it’ll be easier to contact each other there 🙂 My name is Autumn Aki Smith 🙂 After the 15th sounds good to me!

        Liked by 1 person

  3. […] Fukagawa Coffee (East Tokyo, Kiyosumishirakawa) […]


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