Just a stone’s throw away from the and ramen shops of Monzenakacho and hip modern cafes up at Kiyosumi, one stumbles along a shop veranda with plants, classic countryside-garden benches, and a wind chime. Jazz music floats out from the open door, and when you poke your head in, it’s like walking into a time capsule from the jazz era a century ago.

Though it’s been around for decades, with its bewildering array of coffee options, Fukagawa Coffee has been sustained by coffee hunters and locals who don’t need Google Maps (it’s not marked, but the address is correct).

You can pick you seat and either the owner or his wife will come to take the order. The menu is all in Japanese. There are afternoon tea sets for 750 JPY with coffee or tea and a choice of matcha roll, matcha mont-blanc, creme brulee, brownie, cheesecake, and Satsuma sweet potato-apple tart.

This place is best enjoyed with at least an hour or two. Most of the visitors stayed a while with a book or a group of friends. It was the same for us. We sat for three hours long after dark.

We had two sets, and tried both the drip coffee and the espresso. Both are yummy and mild, matching Japanese tastes and complimentary to the desserts. The creme brulee is a Japanese adaptation with more custard and less of the caramelised sugar, which results in a light, but satisfying dessert. The highlight of the Satsuma sweet potato and apple tart is definitely the flavourful paste filling, as the pastry puff is quite soft, more like a flaky bread.

In addition to the coffee and food, the decore is rich with history. Lamps hang from the ceiling. Porcelain tea pots grace the hardwood shelves. Japanese swords are on display in every free surface. The owner is happy to discuss them at length if you ask (in Japanese).

The best way to enjoy this place is to come with friends and share the ambience over great conversation and good company. On your way out, see if a certain roast catches your eye!

Good For:

• Coffee: Drip, Espresso (straight)
• Friends: Hangouts & catching up
• Work* They don’t have WiFi or outlets, but plenty of tables.
• Chilling and reading

If you liked this post, check out the full list of Kiyosumishirakawa’s Cafes.