As part of the Historical Tokyo Walks that follow Edo Tokyo cultural sites, the Nihonbashi-Fukagawa route (日本橋本所深川コース) was taken from the Japanese website guide Sanpo Reikibun. The city has 23 Historical Tokyo Walks, one for each ward. My map has the English translation for the Japanese route summary as well as added some additional historical context or information. Major sites covered along the route include: Nihonbashi, Mitsukoshi flagship store, Tokyo Stock Exchange, haiku poet Mastuo Basho’s neighbourhood, the Fukagawa Fudoson, Tomioka Hachimangu, Kiyosumi Garden, Ryugoku Gokugikan, Former Yasuda Garden, Edo Tokyo Museum, Karamae Bridge. For anime watchers, the 3-Gatsu no Lion, Tsukumogami Kashimasu, Onihei Hanakcho. The route also overlaps with many cafes that I’ve covered in East Tokyo.

Nihonbashi to Fukagawa Historical Tokyo Walk

This complete walking course should take a day if you stop to look at shops and eat. You can stop at any point and take transit as well. You can save and pre-load this map onto your Google Maps App. I have included a layer for the walking route and sites, a layer for local food (because I used to live around there), and a layer for my favourite places. The focus of this post is on historical information, rather than “how to get there”.

---

It’s hard to arrive in Tokyo with a blank canvas. The world’s most populous city looms large in the global imagination, ascribed for decades by writers, filmmakers, and now the masses with smartphones. Even before we’ve landed, we’ve seen the city lights, the sushi in Bordain’s food tours, the crowds from every angle of Shibuya crossing, the “weird” and the “wonderful”, whatever those may be for each of us.

Arguably no-one (except perhaps refugees before arrival and aren’t acknowledged in Japan), has the “benefit” of Tokyo as a blank canvas. Modern day Tokyo emerged out of the US fire raids that burned Edo to the ground Tokyo may have come across plaques with area maps scattered throughout the city. The plaques are for historical walks, one for each of the 23 Wards of Tokyo, that introduce people to the renown figures, iconic buildings, and distinct features add flavour and texture to what might seem at first like uniform rows of concrete. 

Part 1: Edo Nihonbashi Walk (Otemachi ~ Yoroi Bridge) 

This walk runs from Otemachi along the Nihonbashi River, cutting across Nihonbashi in the heart Edo Tokyo. The Tokugawa Shogunate’s gold minting building once stood on at the location of the current headquarters of the Bank of Japan. The current Mitsukoshi flagship store was built on the site of the former Mitsuiechigoya, or Mitsui-Echigo Shop. The original store housed the Echigo kimono store, which has now become Mitsukoshi as well as the precursor to the Mitsui Group, which grew from its origins as the Mitsui Bank. Nihonbashi was once the economic center of Edo. A bustling fish market used to be sit on the bank of the Nihonbashi River, beyond which lay Kabutocho, Japan’s Wall Street. The Tokyo Stock Exchange (TSE), established in 1878 during the Meiji Era as the Tokyo Kabushiki Torihikijo, still has its office there.

Part 2: Ningyocho-Hamacho Walk (Yoroi Bridge ~ Shin Ohashi) 

Cross over the Yoroi Bridge to Ningyocho. During the Edo period, this was the street where the Nakamura-za and Ichimura-za, two of Edo Tokyo’s main three Kubuki theatres, would hold competitive performances. Crossing Hamacho and into Amazakayokocho, you can still feel the whiff of the old Shitamachi, Low City, of Edo Tokyo in the small streets. Pass Meiji-za, which continues its legacy of putting on theatre performances and head toward the Hamacho Park. From here, you will be venturing into the historically vast wetlands beyond the mighty Sumida River.

Part 3: Fukugawa-Basho Cottage walk (Shin-Ohashi ~ Kiyosumi Gardens)

One of my favourite cafes, iki Espresso, is close by. The cafe is a couple’s flagship example of how to run a hospitality business. They live around the area and are deeply committed to the community.

Part 4: Shitamachi-Fukagawa Walk (Kiyosumi Gardens ~ Monzen–nakacho)

The Kiyozumi Gardens are what remains of the secondary residence of the wealthy merchant Kinokuniya Bunzaemon, who traded lumber, citrus, salmon under the protection of one of the Shogun’s advisors. In nearby Joto–in is the location of Bunzaemon’s grave. Historically, the town of Fukagawa was known for its lumber and canals, some of which still remain throughout the modern-day Koto Ward.  During the Edo period, nets placed over canals were used as lumberyards and this area was home to the traditional art of “log rolling”. These waterways are now repurposed as recreational parks, boardwalks, and has its own Koto-ku waterbus / ferry service.

Fukagawa is also famous for its Shio Daifuku, which is sold by the shop right beside the Monzennaka-cho Station exit with the large red Torii gate.

Part 5: Central Kuramae Walk (Shin-Ohashi to Asakusa Bridge)

From the base of Shin-Ohashi, head north towards the Ryogoku Bridge, the second bridge built over the Sumida River and formerly one of Edo’s busiest areas. Midway you’ll find Ekoin where kanjin sumo, the precursor to modern-day sumo took place. These sumo matches began as fundraising events to collect money for the building of temples and shrines. Historically, sumo matches were lively, outdoor events. The wide main street going east to west at the end of the Ryogoku Bridge has always been a popular location for viewing fireworks ever since they were introduced. From here, continue heading north until you reach the Kuramae Bridge. Cross over to enter the Kuramae neighbourhood, which was once lined with the Bakufu (Shogunate government) granaries. 

---

Other things I’d recommend

I’ve written this in the style that I would do for my friends, which tends to linger on history with the assumption that people are intelligent enough to Google Map routes and do their own restaurant research. Having said that, I’ll make a few final neighbourhood recommendations (which are already on my map:

I dare not say anything in Fukagawa is the best. I can’t see how any place is the best — though it is home to a high-end tempura restaurant that requires reservations. Tokyo has great places in every corner and I have go-tos for most of the areas I visit. But having said that, despite having lived in / stayed in other areas, it has just the exact combination of nature (cherry blossom lined canals with no crowds), history, honest local establishments, and proximity to my centre of Tokyo, Nihonbashi — where I restock on quality cooking ingredients and fill my dessert cravings.

FAQs

---