A review of an independent coffee roaster, All Seasons Coffee at Shinjuku Sanchome. Notes are by an amateur coffee enthusiast and shoestring digital nomad. Descriptions are equal parts coffee and remote-work suitability. Most photos are shot with a second-hand Fujifilm X100.

Pour-over coffee selections are rotated often — Photo by Athena Lam

Cafe Overview:

All Seasons Coffee is hidden in a bar area that is quiet during the day — Photo by Athena Lam

All Seasons Coffee is one of the few shops open on a weekend morning, just as all the bars in the area have closed for the day. Wandering to this side of Shinjuku, closer to the Shinjuku Gyoen, which I highly recommend spending a sunny day in, one sees another side of Shinjuku. Late at night, it is a lively community of bars. By day, you will see quiet preparations going on in small restaurants.

All Seasons Coffee is like a handful of other independent gems that have chosen to set up shop in this area (including a Halal ramen shop called Ouka). Their coffee options include their in-house roasts and other roasters from Tokyo. Drink choices include espresso and pour-over. I tried their latte, which frankly was just alright. I have more confidence in their pour-over and aeropress options.

Jun and Emi founded their own shop after they discovered their mutual love for coffee — Photo by Athena Lam

The cafe has a few outlets available for remote work, but no Wi-Fi. Seat options include benches, bar stools with counters or on a communal table, and the usual cafe two-seater table.

Individual seats at All Seasons Coffee — Photo by Athena Lam

The place has a steady stream of patrons in the morning, but will usually have a spare seat for an individual worker. I’d recommend taking a break here to escape the crowds closer to the Shinjuku JR Station / Kabuki-cho and the department store area. Or, grab a take-out cup before you spend a sunny afternoon on the grass at Shinjuku Gyoen.

Counter-ledges that are popular in Tokyo cafes — Photo by Athena Lam

Their Story / What I like About Them:

Remote work seat options include a long bar table — Photo by Athena Lam

All Seasons Coffee was founded by two passionate coffee lovers in their mid-twenties: Jun and Emi. Jun discovered the taste of single origin coffee on a visit to Tokyo and wanted to work at a cafe. That cafe manager hired Jun, who at the time was a furniture maker in another city.

Four Seasons serves local roasters as well as in-house roasts — Photo by Athena Lam

Jun’s mentor later became the founder of Glitch Coffee Roasters in Jimbocho, which is why you will always have at least one of their roasts to choose from. All Seasons has developed its in-house roasting lines and they document the origins and profiles of the beans (unfortunately only in Japanese). Jun speaks some English, so ask questions if you have any!

Espresso options also available — Photo by Athena Lam

Good For:

• Coffee: Pour over and espresso
• Food: Pastries
• Cafe Space: Seats about 15
• Friends: Hangouts, catching up, work
• Workspace: Communal table, individual coffee tables, and 2-person tables, wall counters
• Remote Work: A few outlets available (no Wi-Fi)

If you liked this post, check out my list of Off-Centre Tokyo Cafes.

A review of an independent cafe, Bridge Coffee & Icecream in Kappabashi, close to Asakusa, Tokyo. Notes are by an amateur coffee enthusiast and shoestring digital nomad. Descriptions are equal parts coffee and remote-work suitability. Most photos are shot with a second-hand Fujifilm X100.

Happily finished espressos — Photo by Athena Lam

Cafe Overview:

Bridge coffee is close to Asakusa and Kappabashi Kitchen Town — Photo by Athena Lam

Once the underbelly of Tokyo, Taito Ward is now home to two of the city’s most famous attractions: Ueno Park and Asakusa’s Sensoji. The area that had once been known for teahouses, a euphemism for the Edo brothel area known as Yoshiwara, has recently seen a mushrooming of independent cafes.

I stumbled upon Bridge Coffee one day while roaming through the nondescript grid speckled with corner stores and weary mom and pop shops. The wooden sign that said coffee made me do a double take into what looked like a designer studio.

The place has a cafe, event area, and office — Photo by Athena Lam

Inside the unassuming facade is a cavernous upscale modern industrial space. It’s the type of space one expects to be filled in central, commercial districts. Except, it isn’t. Instead, one or two people trickle in and lounge around, making this an ideal workspace. Plugs are available on the walls, but there is no Wi-Fi.

High ceilings set it apart from most other cafes in Tokyo — Photo by Athena Lam

Bridge Coffee doesn’t roast in-house. Instead, they serve espressos made with beans from Little Nap Coffee Stand in Shibuya. I couldn’t manage a hot coffee in the heat and opted for an iced one (without syrup). It was delicious. Cold brew fans may blast me for saying this, but the ratio of water and ice they added to the espresso shot made the drink just as flavourful as the 8-hour method. The savoury flavours were not watered down and the slight variation in temperature also gave the drink a slightly tea-like aroma.

I wouldn’t hesitate to come back and try the hot espressos.

Iced coffee after walking through a sultry summer day — Photo by Athena Lam

Their Story / What I like About Them:

Remote work options include long table, individual seats, and bench tables — Photo by Athena Lam

Bridge Coffee is a mixed space, with architecture firm at the back, an event area upstairs, and a cafe section that faces the street. The three spaces are distinct, but contribute to the spacious whole. For one thing, if remote working, having other people at the back doing the same adds to my productivity! Faro Coffee in Bunkyo Ward also has a similar concept.

View from the upper meeting room area — Photo by Athena Lam

Good For:

• Coffee: Espresso
• Food: Pastries, meals
• Cafe Space: Seats about 20 people, with an upstairs area available for rent
• Friends: Hangouts, catching up
• Workspace: Long table, individual tables, counter with benches
• Remote Work: Plugs available

If you liked this post, check out my list of Off-Centre Tokyo Cafes.

A review of an independent cafe, Davide Coffee Shop, close to Asakusa and Kappabashi in Tokyo. Notes are by an amateur coffee enthusiast and shoestring digital nomad. Descriptions are equal parts coffee and remote-work suitability. Most photos are shot with a second-hand Fujifilm X100.

Latte — Photo by Athena Lam

Cafe Overview:

Davide Coffee Shop is located in Taito between Ueno and Asakusa — Photo by Athena Lam

Iriya is a lost corner of Tokyo. The low-rise blocks between Ueno and Asakusa look like any other part of concrete Tokyo. More informed locals may know about the yakuza meetings that occasionally happen here and notice some boarded up and rusted window frames. Iriya is also as ghetto as Tokyo gets and is where many homeless and borderline poverty elderly live. None of it is apparent.

Instead, most people will notice the activity at Kappabashi, Tokyo’s kitchen town. Walk about 10 minutes North, and you’ll encounter the retro-diner place that makes you take a double take. Under the red Davide neon letters one reads Coffee Shop.

The space doubles as bar and cafe with a retro spin — Photo by Athena Lam

I first came across Davide while cycling and only revisited months later on a weekend. Even in the early afternoon, I was the only patron along with my friend. I suspect the place becomes more crowded in the evening as a bar.

Seats about 11 people in the cafe — Photo by Athena Lam

Davide is a serious coffee shop though. Davide’s epresso blend is a rich, slightly acidic mixture and the milk is well frothed. I would not think twice about returning for the latte. I also ordered the affogato, which was delicious. The acidic espresso shot was yummy irrespective of what ratio of ice cream I mixed it with.

Affogato — Photo by Athena Lam

I noticed 2 plugs in the downstairs area, but the upstairs loft doesn’t have plugs. My friend and I hung out all afternoon upstairs, which was a cozy private corner with a great view of the street and common area below. The raised ledge is also great for piling notebooks and other things to not clutter the workspace.

The upstairs seating area — Photo by Athena Lam

Their Story / What I like About Them:

A collection of Americana by the owner-operator who speaks fluent English — Photo by Athena Lam

I don’t know the story behind the name Davide, but the owner-operator seems to have spent time in the US. He speaks excellent English, if with a slightly aloof demeanor (he’s much more friendly in Japanese). This random American-inspired outpost is a welcome remote work watering hole for people who (like me) prefer wandering off the beaten coffee paths in Shibuya.

— Photo by Athena Lam

The bar seems like a saloon, while one corner has a handful of books and hanging t-shirts for sale. By the time I left in the late afternoon, the cafe had filled out downstairs. A few visitors seem like regulars hanging out at the counter. Also, the cafe seems to attract people who sport trench coats and fedoras… if that’s your thing!

People watching from above — Photo by Athena Lam

Good For:

• Coffee: Espresso
• Food: Soup, light meal (after 5pm)
• Cafe Space: 11 seats, 2 levels
• Friends: Hangouts, catching up, work
• Workspace: High tables and upstairs counter
• Remote Work: 2 outlets downstairs

If you liked this post, check out my list of Off-Centre Tokyo Cafes.

A review of an independent coffeehouse, Chatei Hatou in Shibuya, Tokyo. Notes are by an amateur coffee enthusiast and shoestring digital nomad. Descriptions are equal parts coffee and remote-work suitability. Most photos are shot with a second-hand Fujifilm X100.

Aged Coffee takes 20 minutes to make — Photo by Athena Lam

Cafe Overview:

Entrance to Chatei Hatou — Photo by Athena Lam

Located about a 5-minute walk from Shibuya Metro station, Chatei Hatou sits on a small slope flanked by restaurants with opaque entrances. Only the intentional patrons looking for its black wooden door would push it open.

Arrive early on the weekend if you want a quiet setting — Photo by Athena Lam

The open space, with its long counter and L-shaped seating area, takes the first-time visitor aback. How can a place this big, and yet cozy, be sitting in the heart of Shibuya’s frenetic lights, crowds, and fashion boutiques? I’ve come on more than one occasion, and my advice for a digital nomad with time is to arrive right when it opens, preferably on a weekday just to experience the surreal tranquility of being the first patron.

Studio Ghibli-like decore and ambiance — Photo by Athena Lam

This kissaten, Japanese coffeehouse, has a whiff of Hayao Miyazaki romanticism — perhaps because of the potted tree stretching its glorious branches in the cavernous space, or perhaps because of the rows of china along the shelves. Or perhaps it’s more like a living museum from the turn of the century with its rosewood display cases, lamps, and vintage LV suitcase casually on display.

The first customers trickle in soon after Chatei Hatei opens in the late morning — Photo by Athena Lam

For digital nomads and remote workers, this space is friendly. On more than one occasion, I’ve found professors with their papers spread on a corner table and a laptop sitting on a table with slides open and a deal to be closed. Even the scruffy students with noise cancelling headphones feel relaxed enough to leave their textbooks on the table as they type furiously away. I saw plugs in several corner spots, but be strategic with your seats!

But, let me move on to the coffee.

Simultaneous coffee and coffee cocktail orders — Photo by Athena Lam

Frankly, kissaten coffee is usually only alright. Chatei Hatou has one drink that I come back specifically for: the aged coffee that requires 20 minutes to brew. You’ll see the process in the next few photos.

The Master making their signature aged coffee — Photo by Athena Lam

Counter to popular coffee literature about freshly roasted beans being consumed between 48-hours and 14 days of roasting, some schools of kissaten thought believe in intentionally aged coffee. Either way, Chatei Hatou’s resulting drink is virtually like an espresso — perhaps even stronger, but smoother and without the acidity.

The aged coffee takes 20 minutes to make — Photo by Athena Lam

To fully enjoy one, I would suggest taking a counter seat so you can watch the brewing process. Out of respect for the Master (barista), I would suggest not pulling out a laptop in front of him, although there is no explicit rule about it. Books are fine.

Aged coffee is made with a dribble of water that cannot be rushed, and a lot of beans.

Cup sizes for every type of drink  — Photo by Athena Lam

The resulting aged coffee drink is about 1/2 the size of an ordinary blended coffee drink. Note also that Chatei Hatou has an extensive coffee menu, but the drinks I remember are the original blend and Vienna coffee (hot or iced).

Many patrons also like ordering the tea, as the name chatei actually means teahouse.

Cake selection includes greentea matcha and banana chocolate — Photo by Athena Lam

I’d also recommend trying coffee with a cake. Cake options include chiffon cake (cinnamon, matcha), rare cheese cake, squash pudding, and one time I had a banana chocolate cake as well. The simple desserts compliment the simple, dark and smokey coffee. Though brewed entirely differently, my closest comparison for kissaten coffee is burner coffee, mostly because it is often a dark roast, with very smokey flavours and smooth profile. Kissaten coffee is almost the opposite of the fruity, layered tea-like pour-over coffees more typical of Third-Wave cafes.

Seating in different corners throughout the  — Photo by Athena Lam

In addition to the counter, visitors can take a pic from 4 and 2 person tables as well as two oval tables. Even though the cafe fills up in the afternoons, the noise level remains at a lively ambience. Corner spots or seats behind displays are generally still quiet.

Note that this cafe is smoking-friendly and often will have an individual who enjoys lighting up a cigarette with his coffee.

Quiet corners and individual tables have outlets for work — Photo by Athena Lam

Their Story / What I like About Them:

A cafe au lait (I think)  — Photo by Athena Lam

Unfortunately, the top Google search results for Chatei Hatou in English and Japanese return association to Blue Bottle Coffee’s James Freeman, who credits the kissaten for inspiring his brand of coffee over twenty years ago. I’m glad I didn’t know about this association when I first tried this place and was free of expectations.

Instead, I just enjoyed scanning the display cases, watching the patrons, and noting down brewing techniques from the Master, Taguchi-san, with his immaculate white shirt and pinned tie.

Iced milk coffee (I think) — Photo by Athena Lam

Fortunately, many of the details that create Chatei Hatou’s immediate charm are typical of higher-end kissaten. Teijimaya Coffee, one of my favourites at Shinjuku’s Omoideyokocho (Yakitori Alley), also has a polished wooden interior, an extensive china collection, and a curated collection of heritage display items. So what makes Chatei Hatou worth returning to in a city with an endless list of cafes to visit?

Preparing their fresh chocolate and banana cakes after opening — Photo by Athena Lam

Some people may point to the extensive menu. Some will describe the artful preparation of each individual drink item, which may require just water, or pre-iced coffee, or cream, or smashed ice.

Details — Photo by Athena Lam

I think what keeps me returning is the transparency. When I arrive a few minutes early, the staff let me in anyway as they go about their final preparations. In the morning hours, the professionalism is most apparent. As the only guest who is in no visible rush, the staff do their tasks without pretense. I watch as their eyes occasionally furrow with concentration at smoothing out a cake, but more often with I see their relaxed focus they take out items and put away others to speed up serving time without compromising drink quality.

Small moments like these define Chatei Hatou for me: just another coffeehouse. It just happens to be a great one.

Many display items collected over the years have become antiques — Photo by Athena Lam

Good For:

• Coffee: Pour over (their specialty is aged coffee)
• Food: Pastries, cakes
• Cafe Space: About 40 seats. Smoking friendly.
• Friends: Hangouts, catching up, readings
• Workspace: counter table, big group round table, individual tables
• Remote Work: Bring your own pocket WiFi, plugs available

If you liked this post, check out my list of Off-Centre Tokyo Cafes.