Shikoku Pilgrimage / Ohenro

Henro Day 37: July 27

Furu-Takamatsu (古高松) → Zoda Station (造田駅) → Tokushima Otsuru Ryokan (徳島市大鶴旅館) Temples: 87 (Nagao-ji 長尾寺), 88 (Ōkubo-ji 大窪寺) Weather: Sunny → Cloudy → Rain → Cloudy Travel Method: Train + Walking + Bus to Tokushima Distance: 17.6 (+ 5.2 km) 5:57. I see the pricing board in the train above the exit where the conductor takes the fare. […]

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Shikoku Pilgrimage / Ohenro

Henro Day 26: July 16

Imabari City (今治市) Temples: 57 Eifuku-ji (栄福寺), 58 Senyū-ji (仙遊寺), 59 Iyo Kokubun-ji (伊予国分寺) Weather: Rain + Typhoon Travel Method:  Walking + Train return to Imabari Distance: 16.8km   Typhoon day! It’s forecasted to make landfall tonight, so I still have the morning to visit the temples clustered around Imabari. My hosts, having walked the Ohenro themselves, urge me to get […]

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Shikoku Pilgrimage / Ohenro

Henro Day 24: July 14

Matsuyama City (松山市) → Kuma Kogen (久万高原) → Iyowake (伊予和気)  Temples: 44 Daihō-ji (大宝寺), 45 Iwaya-ji (岩屋寺) Weather: Sunny Travel Method:  Car + Light Walking Distance: (+42.6km) Today is a late day because Noriko-san, the Couchsurfing friend I’d met yesterday, is driving me up to Temples 44 and 45. Even though I was looking forward to a mountain trail […]

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Shikoku Pilgrimage / Ohenro

Henro Day 23: July 13

Matsuyama City 松山市 Temples: None Weather: Sunny with Clouds Travel Method:  Walking + Car Distance: None Glorious sleep, oh glorious sleep.  Real henro holiday. Henro-related things: zero. Today is errand day and lunch with a Couchsurfing host.  I drift into the living room, savour the yogurt, cereal, and cut fruits. I step outside onto the […]

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Shikoku Pilgrimage / Ohenro

Henro Day 20: July 10

Hirata Station 平田 → Michi-no-Eki Mima 道の駅みま Temples: 39 (Enkō-ji 延光寺), 40 (Kanjizai-ji 観自在寺) Weather: Sunny with Clouds Travel Method:  Walking + Train + Bus + Train Distance: 12 km (+78.1km) Tired of trying to sleep, I get up at 4:30am. I spent the past four hours lying on the hard plastic chairs – the ones that curve up into ridges – […]

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Shikoku Pilgrimage / Ohenro

Henro Day 11: July 1

Kochi City 高知市 Temples: 31 Chikurin-ji (竹林寺), 32 Zenjibu-ji (禅師峰寺) Weather: Cloudy with Sunny Parts Travel Method:  Walking Distance: 17.1 km My alarm goes off in the pitch-black room. I resent it with a passion I never felt when woken by sunshine and the cheerful birds after a sleepless nojuku night. In the fog of fatigue after […]

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Shikoku Pilgrimage / Ohenro

Henro Day 7: June 27

Shishikui 宍喰 → Kiragawa 吉良川 Temples: 24 Hotsumisaki-ji (最御崎寺), 25 Shinshō-ji (津照寺), 26 Kongōchō-ji (金剛頂寺) Weather: Cloudy + Rain Travel Method: Bus + Walking Distance: (+40) 27 Morning. Fold futon. Curtains. Sunshine. It rained. Pack. Food. I move around as quietly as I can. Aurelie is still sleeping, and I enjoy extending the quiet as long […]

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